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DIY $18 Console Table

October 19, 2012

Yesterday I showed you our styled staircase landing:








And in that post I had mentioned that I built the console table for $18 so guess what that means?! It's tutorial time!



To build the table, you'll need some supplies. I had the stain, paint, nails/screws, and tools on hand so I only needed to buy the following pieces of wood:

  • 4, 2x2x8 furring strips for $1.87/each, $7.48 total -- double check that they're not warped before purchasing them!
  • 1, 1x12x8 piece of utility shelf, $10.87

TOTAL: $18.35!

Before I started to build the table, I needed to figure out its dimensions. Like I said yesterday, I had originally planned for the table to go behind the chesterfield sofa in our loft so I made the dimensions fit for that space and my table ended up being 48" wide x 28 3/4" high x 11 1/4" deep.

Once I had my dimensions, I used my miter saw to cut the furring strips to the following sizes:
  • 4, 27 1/4" pieces (for the vertical legs)
  • 4, 45" pieces (for the long horizontal stretchers)
  • 4, 8 1/4" pieces (for the small horizontal side pieces)

We had our 1x12x8 piece of utility shelf cut in half at Lowe's so we had two 48" pieces for the top. After all of our wood was cut, it was time to start building!

We started by building one full leg:



To make it look like the table has feet, I measured 3" up from the bottom of each vertical board and made a mark. Then we applied Liquid Nails to both ends of the horizontal stretcher board in the middle and stuck it into place.

Once the glue had sort of set up, we nailed some nails into both sides to make the leg more stable:



We repeated the same steps above to make a second identical leg. After they were both built, we started to attach the small 8 1/4" horizontal pieces using the same Liquid Nails method:





We didn't hammer any nails into these pieces because they would've hit the previous nails we hammered in and we figured that since the pieces were so small, we wouldn't have to worry about them being as secure as the longer ones.

Once both of the lower 8 1/4" pieces were glued down, we attached the upper pieces using the same Liquid Nails, no actual nails method. After they had dried a little bit, we set the second leg on top of the pieces and weighed it down over night:





Make note of the screws going into the two horizontal stretchers above! We added those after we stood the first leg up and it was still wobbly.

After the frame was dry, we attached the top two horizontal stretchers with screws only since we had run out of Liquid Nails at that point. I may have gone a little overboard haha

Anyway, once the frame was built, we could focus on the top. I don't have any photos of this step so I apologize but it's incredibly simple!

First, we made sure that both of the 48" boards lined up and we liked the placement of the knots. Then we applied a generous amount of Liquid Nails to the top of one of the 48" boards. Next, we took the second 48" board and placed it on top making sure that all of the edges lined up making a Liquid Nails filled wooden sandwich.

Once everything looked good, we took two 65 lb boxes of leftover tile and placed them on top of the boards. We let everything sit for 48 hours to ensure that both pieces would bond together. After the 48 hours had passed, we applied some wood glue to the top edges of the frame and stuck the top down:



We set the same boxes of tile (seen above! God I need to clean our garage haha) on top of the entire table and waited another 48 hours for the glue to set up. Once it had, it was time to fill any gaps with wood filler:



After the wood filler dried, we sanded the entire table down and prepped it for stain by taping off the top:





And then staining the frame dark walnut, my go-to stain color :)





After the stain was dry, I removed the tape from the top and re-applied new tape at the top edge of the frame so I could take the entire table outside and give it the Dexter treatment:



I did this so that I could spray paint the top of the table white without getting any overspray on the newly stained frame. In hindsight, spray paint wasn't the best idea. Yes the finish was much smoother than any paint I've ever rolled on a piece of furniture but it took foreverrrrr to finish because it required so many coats. If I were to build the table all over again, I'd go the brush and roller route for the top!

After the spray paint had dried, I gave the entire table a few coats of spray lacquer and let everything cure overnight. Feel free to use poly in the lacquer's place if you feel more comfortable using it!

Once everything was done, done, done, I brought the table inside and styled it at the top of our staircase landing:



Eventually I'll bring the table back out into our garage to stain the underside of it so you don't see the raw wood when you're walking up the stairs but it works for now.










Not bad for $18 and some change, huh? Any plans to DIY a table of your own?

Disclaimer: I can't guarantee that your console table will turn out just like mine. Differences in materials and tools used, and your skill level, will yield different results. I cannot be held responsible for a failed project or an injury of any kind so proceed with caution and build at your own risk. Remember: always use caution when working with power tools and read any instructions before beginning any project.


I'm sharing this project on: DIY Showoff, Home Stories A to Z, House of Hepworths, House on the Way.

31 comments :

  1. It turned out so nice! I don't know why but I'm a little scared of liquid nails...is it just glue? And I love the dark walnut stain + your garage looks super clean compared to mine!

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  2. Oh man, it looks so good! And for $18?! Unreal!

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  3. Thanks Crystal! Yep, Liquid Nails is pretty much just thick glue, nothing to be afraid of :)

    Thanks Amy!

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  4. I LOVE this console table you made. My Hubs and I welded a similiar style, and I am smitten with the clean lines. The artwork and styling is also so pretty. Those lamps are perfection and the square shape is amazing with the table. Oh, I'm jealous.

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  5. Thank you Tanya! I would have loved a welded base instead of a wooden one buuuttt I don't know how to weld haha

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  6. Looks awesome! Love how you styled it! I need to start building more stuff. After I finish the other 10,000 unfinished projects in my house. Hah!

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  7. I really like the design of this table. Looks fantastic!! I want to diy a coffee table, but I have not had time to do that yet. Lot's of ideas though....

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  9. Caitlin!
    This looks fantastic- thanks for the inspiration. I'm definitely gonna do it.
    The styling is PERFECT too! I live in a studio in L.A. so the construction should be interesting- fingers crossed.

    Thanks again for sharing!
    -andrea

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  10. Thanks Andrea! Good luck on making one of your own :)

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  11. I love this console table and am planning to build it as an kitchen entryway table later this month. I'm fairly new to blogging. When I do build it, do I have your permission to add a link of this post to my blog?

    Happy New Year and best wishes for 2013!

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  12. Welcome to blogging! Of course you can include the link! Happy New Year to you as well :)

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  13. This is EXACTLY what I need for my entry! It's the exact style and everything that I've been looking to purchase! But like you, I can't pass up a table like this for <$20! Beautiful!
    mymulberrytree.blogspot.com

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  14. Awesome Ashley! Glad you found the table! Let me know when you build one of your own, I'd love to feature it! :)

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  15. Greetings, Caitlin! I finally built a console table inspired by your design. I added a link to your site from my little blog post. Here's the post, if you're interested: http://sunnysideup-stairs.blogspot.com/2013/02/project-herringbone-console-table-legs.html

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  16. this is a great looking table! love your diy!

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  17. Fantastic. Just what I need for behind my sofa in our new house. Making it this weekend!! Love the double thick top. Really nice.

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  18. Hi! Thanks for the idea and the instructions! I created the table and it turned out great!

    http://organizedsoperfectly.com/2013/04/29/diy-console-table/

    Kelsy

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  19. Sarah - The lamps are from TJ Maxx from 2008 so I don't know if you'd be able to find them anymore.

    Your table looks great Yurra! Thanks for sharing the link with me :)

    Thanks Whitney!

    Thanks Preparing for Peanut! Cute blog name by the way :)

    Your table looks great Kelsy! I love the stain/paint combo you chose! Thanks for letting me check it out :D

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  20. Hello!! I LOVE how this table turned out! I just had some questions about the measurements:
    Your dimensions were "48" wide x 28 3/4" high x 11 1/4" deep"
    So you used the following:
    4, 27 1/4" pieces (for the vertical legs)
    4, 45" pieces (for the long horizontal stretchers)
    4, 8 1/4" pieces (for the small horizontal side pieces)
    I really want to build your table and am a first timer, so my question is how did you get those dimensions with the dimensions for the pieces? Wouldn't you technically need 26 3/4" for vertical legs (accounting for the two one inch pieces on top), 44" pieces for the horizontal stretchers (accounting for the two 2 inch pieces on the sides), and 7 1/4" for the small horizontal side pieces (accounting for the two 2 inch pieces on the sides)? I am asking because I want to do this right and get even close to your result, so would love your input/explanation for measurements!

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  21. Hi Angie! Glad you love the table!

    As far as the measurements go, 2 x 2's of any type of wood aren't actually 2" wide, they're 1 1/2" wide. Well, they're 2" when they first cut them off the tree but then they have to remove the bark and make the boards straight and what not so that's where they lose the 1/2". Also, all 1's in any lumber measurement are 3/4", not 1" so 2, 3/4" pieces would equal 1.5" for the top.

    Here's the measurements all broken down for you:

    Vertical legs = 27 1/4" legs + 3/4" top piece #1 + 3/4" top piece #2 = 28 3/4" for the total height
    Horizontal stretchers = 45" for the stretchers + 1 1/2" wide leg #1 + 1 1/2" wide leg #2 = 48" for the total width
    Small horizontal side pieces = 8 1/4" side piece + 1 1/2" wide leg #1 + 1 1/2" wide leg #2 = 11 1/4 for the total depth

    This link helped me out a lot with the measurements when I first started to buy wood: http://mistupid.com/homeimpr/lumber.htm

    Does that help you? If it doesn't, feel free to ask more questions! :)

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    1. That helps a LOT! Thank you so much :) I am off to go purchase some wood!

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  22. Hi Caitlin! I've been tossing around ideas for an entry table for a little while and hadn't landed on anything I was super excited about... until I saw yours pop up on Pinterest! I'm a new blog follower, so I hadn't seen this post before :) I *may* work up the courage to attempt this, or something inspired by it! I was thinking, for that welded metal look, of using a metallic spray paint (I've used Rustoleum's bronze before and it's very convincing!). I'll be sure to let you know if/when this happens!

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  23. Love the gem print... Mind sharing where you found it? I'm looking for some large scale b/w art for above my console as well.

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    1. Hi Amanda! I got it from this seller on Etsy: http://www.etsy.com/listing/80023786/crystal-poster – she has a lot of great stuff! I promise I'm not being paid to say that either ;)

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  24. Hi there, so I am at the step of staining... and I think I may have chose wrong when I bought a polyshades stain, three coats later and it is still nowhere near the color of the swatch. What stain brand did you use? How many coats did you apply? More details around this step are much appreciated for the DIY newbies! :) Thanks! Love your blog.

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    1. Hi Anastasia! I used Minwax's "Dark Walnut" stain, the non-polyshades kind in the yellow can. I applied several coats (maybe 3 or 4?) allowing them to dry for the amount of time the can specified (I think it's 5 minutes). I wiped any excess stain off after the amount of time was up and then I reapplied another coat of stain if the table wasn't dark enough. After the table was dark enough, I let it dry 24 hours before painting the top white. Applying spray lacquer or poly will darken the stain a little bit but not much so keep that in mind! :)

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  25. LOVE this table that I made. I just wrote up my own post about it and put a link to your blog.
    I am so happy you write about this it made my search for a table finally come to an end!!! SC

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